The best ways to plant and grow strawberries

The best ways to plant and grow strawberries

Getting your own sweet juicy strawberries is not so difficult if you follow the planting and growing rules. There are also some features of care and pest control, diseases about which it is useful to know a novice gardener.

The composition of the soil and the choice of the cultivation place play a huge role. All this must be taken into account when planning to create piece conditions. In this article, we will talk about the best ways to plant strawberries and learn how to plant berries according to the Chinese method.

The nicest ways to plant strawberries

Choosing a suitable and 100% successful strawberry planting method for your site, you will have to familiarize yourself with many in order to study, compare, draw conclusions. Each proposal has both pros and cons. It will not be possible to try each method with your own hands, it will take a lot of time, energy and finances will be spent. You need to heed the advice of experienced agronomist technicians. They will tell you about important details, warn against mistakes.

The selection, as a rule, is carried out taking into account the regional characteristics of the climate, weather variability, the duration of daylight hours.

How to arrange trapezoidal beds?

A good drainage system of the soil is not available everywhere, and it is not always possible to lay it, and for the natural process of growth and nutrition of the roots, unhindered access of moisture and air is needed. A bed raised above the level of the common area will solve the problem.

Raised earthen platforms are made manually or with the help of technology. The width and length are determined individually according to need, but it is more practical to make the beds small (2-3 rows of 4-5 meters each). This makes it easier to care for and harvest. Strengthen edges with small twigs, low sheathing or grass scraps.

Then cover the prepared area with dense plastic wrap with specially made holes of optimal diameter, into which young strawberry rosettes are later planted.

The advantages are that:

  • The film layer prevents moisture evaporation;
  • Eliminates the germination of weeds;
  • Prevents the rooting of the mustache;
  • There is no contamination of ripening berries.

Among the inconveniences they call: the implementation of irrigation through sprinkling and fertilization. It is better to moisten such plantings through drip devices, and to feed them pointwise, for this the film web is divided into parts.

Why are film tunnels so attractive?

Rapidly changing spring weather affects yields. To reduce the risk of loss or to ensure early harvesting, growers install additional protective tunnels made of transparent film above the main rows.

There are simple and cheap types of greenhouses. Arcs up to 80 cm are made from flexible wire of large cross-section. The width between the bases should not exceed the maximum height. The frame is made up of arcs set into the ground at a distance of up to one meter and fastened with upper crossbars. One-layer or two-layer coating, pressed to the ground by means of logs, weighty slats, boards. Also "pockets" are made, filled with water, stones.

The film covers the plantings from:

  • Excessive ultraviolet radiation;
  • Chilling cold winds;
  • Retains moisture, warmth;
  • Reduces the ripening period.

It is easy to control the chemical composition of the soil in the tunnel.

Inconvenient moments: the need for constant ventilation. It is necessary to monitor the temperature and humidity. It is permissible to make holes with a diameter of up to 20 mm for fresh air, however, during periods of severe frost, there is a risk of losing the first flowers.

Growing berries in plastic bags

Abundant flowering, fruiting, excellent plant growth is achieved in containers made of dense polyethylene. A bag of any size is filled with a substrate enriched with potassium fertilizers, microelements, moderately moistened. Young strong seedlings sit in the cruciform holes. It is worth bringing drip irrigation, artificial lighting.

Such a bed is easy to move, but it is better to assign it a stationary place in a closed, bright room with a stable room temperature in order to enjoy the yummy all year round.

If desired, the bag, tied with twine, can be easily placed vertically in order to save space, hung, and put in two tiers.

An inconvenient side is the requirements for a special reinforced shelter if wintering is to be done in the garden and the difficulty of ventilating the root system in the hot season. The filler is quickly depleted and needs to be replaced.

The advantage of Dutch technology

The main secret of the Dutch technological process is obtaining a large crop outside the open field. In this case, the beds are containers of various sizes and shapes:

  • Boxes;
  • Containers;
  • Pots;
  • Bags;
  • Nonwoven sleeves.

The first condition for creating an ideal microclimate is a high sterility of the soil and selective planting rosettes. It is imperative to observe the neutrality of soil pH and control its chemical composition. Regularly do laboratory fences, tests. The second requirement is sufficient lighting for at least 12 hours a day and uniform alternation of day and night.

The cultivars must be self-pollinating, otherwise the flowers will not turn into an ovary.

Explicit advantages of the method: fresh berries in late autumn and winter.

Disadvantages: constant financial investments and costs are required to provide conditions for growth.

Vertical beds

The lack of growing space is not a problem. Everyone can easily and quickly form a green vertical with their own hands. The pillar will be based on:

  • Large diameter plastic pipe;
  • A piece of construction mesh;
  • Sackcloth;
  • Old tires;
  • Boxes, pots and various capacious objects from which the pyramid is built.

The filler is filled evenly from the soil. An irrigation pipe with irrigation canals is laid strictly in the center. The holes in the base are made at a distance of 20-30 cm so that the roots fit normally in them.

Water, moving from above, can accumulate in the lower part of the structure, forming an excess of moisture and accumulation of microbes, therefore, a drainage layer should be provided.

Superiority of verticals: space saving, easy lighting, no weeds, beautiful aesthetic appearance.

Disadvantages: it is difficult to organize optimal watering, too high beds will require additional maintenance devices.

Other methods of planting strawberries

What is suitable for greenhouses, greenhouses, not suitable for an open summer cottage and vice versa... But there are more versatile growing methods.

  1. The beds are arranged on impromptu terraces made of unpaved heights and are temporarily covered with a film, synthetic fabric.
  2. Regular even rows are mulched generously with a clean length of straw or sawdust. Humidity and warmth remain.

Whatever the beds are, the main thing is to observe agricultural technology and choose the right varieties. The harvest will not keep you waiting.

The best ways to plant and grow strawberries

The main advantage when planting strawberries vertically is the ability to reduce the planting area. In addition, with this option of planting, you do not have to deal with weeds, it is much more convenient to harvest, and many diseases are excluded, since there is no contact with the soil.

Of course, for such strawberries, additional nutrition and watering need to be carried out, because due to the limited space, the plant can easily die. It has a higher chance of not tolerating frost, so protection is needed in winter.

Pros and cons of berries

Mustacheless strawberries have advantages and disadvantages. It is called remontant strawberry, this designation of the culture's ability to bear fruit more than once a year. Repaired strawberries lay fruit buds during daylight hours of any length. The only condition is to provide a light period for the bookmark of at least 6 hours.

The main advantages of beardless strawberries:

  • high yield rate
  • minimum requirements for conditions for growth and fruiting
  • taste of berries
  • wide variety of varieties
  • limited space for planting.

Among the disadvantages is the need for frequent planting, as well as the difficulties in breeding in order to preserve a certain variety.

Advice! When growing beardless strawberries in the southern territories, one should take into account its intolerance to high air temperatures.

Necessary equipment

A greenhouse is needed to grow strawberries year-round.

Speaking about the necessary equipment, a novice agrarian will need:

  • place for greenhouse installation
  • containers for seedlings and containers for growing crops
  • irrigation system
  • good lighting.


For a stable harvest, it is necessary that daylight hours last at least 12-16 hours. In the summer, you can save a lot by using natural light, but the rest of the time you will have to shell out significant sums for electricity consumption.

LED lighting for strawberries.

Some experts insist on using in greenhouses special phytolamps , however, it is also permissible to use conventional and energy saving varieties. Standard incandescent fixtures add a significant premium to lighting costs.

The range of lighting fixtures should be close to sunlight, then after 10 days it will be possible to observe flowering, and after 35-37 days - fruiting varietal strawberries.

Drip system

Installation diagram of drip irrigation.

The drip irrigation system has many advantages:

  • localization of water supply
  • reduce evaporation losses
  • elimination of water losses
  • weed reduction
  • maintaining air-water balance
  • simultaneous feeding
  • process automation
  • the ability to use in any soil and topography
  • use in windy weather
  • low energy consumption
  • reducing the level of fungal diseases and infections.

The flow of moisture directly to the root system of the plant does not allow the soil to swamp or dry out. Water does not get on the leaves and does not cause sunburn. The optimal level of watering is 3-5 drops per minute.

The scheme of supplying droppers with a vertical method of growing strawberries.

Equipment for installing a drip irrigation system can be purchased in specialized stores, or you can assemble it yourself using the simplest materials at hand.

Top-best varieties of strawberries for the Moscow region

Not the most fertile soil, short summer, frequent return frosts - all this makes the Moscow region a region with difficult agricultural conditions. And in such a situation, it is especially important to choose the planting material correctly.

Not all widely advertised strawberry varieties are suitable for growing in the Moscow region. Even if large berries are depicted on the package of seedlings, and the manufacturer promises to be repaired, in real conditions the bushes can behave quite differently. To avoid unpleasant surprises, give preference to proven strawberry varieties for the Moscow region.

Early ripe strawberry varieties for the Moscow region

Do you want to get fragrant and ripe berries at the very beginning of summer? Then give preference to early-maturing varieties that begin to bear fruit in June.

Variety Features of the
Alba Resistant to diseases, tolerates transportation well, harvestable. The berries are bright scarlet, elongated.
Vima Zanta Unpretentious, transportable, easily tolerates small frosts. The berries are large, the leaves are slightly curled, and the mustache is formed all summer and is very abundant.
Darselect The berries ripen in early June, grow up to 70 g. The variety is resistant to frost and root diseases.
Sudarushka It is frost-resistant, disease-resistant, and begins to bear fruit at the end of May. Can be grown in greenhouses. Berries are ovoid, juicy, dense.
Moscow Jubilee (Mashenka) Resistant to disease, but afraid of cold weather, high-yielding. Berries at the beginning of fruiting up to 100 g, at the end of 20-40 g.

The most productive strawberry varieties for the Moscow region

Do you expect that strawberries should be enough for both food and preparations? Then choose high-yielding strawberry varieties for the Moscow region.

Variety Features of the
Gigantella Large-fruited variety, resistant to strawberry mites and gray rot. Berries up to 120 g (up to 1 kg per bush), ripen at the end of June. The bushes form numerous whiskers, grow up to 70 cm.
Lord Medium late variety with powerful bushes. The yield reaches 2.5 kg per bush. Needs regular watering and mulching for the winter.
Roxanne Medium late variety, yielding, cold-resistant, but needs regular watering and feeding. The berries are large (up to 100 g), they tolerate transportation well.
Kimberly A productive variety, resistant to frost, powdery mildew, drought. Berries up to 50 g, yield from a bush up to 2 kg. After reddening, the berries need to be allowed another 2-3 days to stay on the bush so that they reach the maximum taste and aroma.
Zenga Zengana Photophilous, frost-resistant, highly resistant to pests and diseases. Berries up to 40 g ripen in mid-June. Bushes are large, prone to abundant whisker formation.

Repairing strawberry varieties for the Moscow region

Even in the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, you can enjoy juicy scarlet berries until the very frost. True, then in the garden you need to plant not only ordinary strawberries, but also remontant ones.

Variety Features of the
Arapaho Resistant to frost and disease, gives two harvests, fruits are well stored and transported.
Diamond Harvested, resistant to disease and not afraid of pests, tolerates cold winters well, fears drought. The pulp of the berries is light, therefore it is not used for preservation.
Kokinskaya early Small-fruited variety, not afraid of frost, moderately resistant to gray mold and powdery mildew.
Queen Elizabeth II Fruiting from May to September, is not afraid of diseases and pests, tolerates light frosts and transportation well.
Monterey High yielding, drought tolerant, resistant to most diseases and pests, but sensitive to powdery mildew.

What kinds of strawberries do you grow?

Landing technology

How to plant strawberries correctly? First, a wide hole with a depth of 15-18 cm is made at the planting site. A nutrient mixture is prepared from the soil extracted from the hole: soil, manure and compost (1 bucket each) with the addition of ash (2 glasses). At the bottom of each hole, a small mound is made from this mixture. Then the seedlings are lowered into the hole so that the upper bud (heart or dew point) is located exactly at ground level. The hole is covered with earth with a simultaneous slight compaction with your hands. It is very important that the location of the apical bud relative to the ground is preserved.

Planted seedlings must be well watered - 0.5 liters per bush, and such watering should be provided within 9-10 days after planting. After planting strawberries, it must be mulched, for which needles are best suited, but you can use straw, dry grass or foliage, sawdust. After 13-15 days, it is advisable to carry out the first feeding - infusion of vermicompost, bird droppings or grass.

Vertical cultivation of strawberries

This method has become very popular with gardeners, because, first of all, it makes it possible to save space on the site, which is often sorely lacking. You can plant strawberries in a vertical way near a fence, a building wall, a gazebo or a summer kitchen.

Beds made of PVC plastic pipes

A PVC pipe is very suitable for this planting method. To make such a bed yourself, you first need to pick up a pipe of the required diameter made of plastic or metal. In parallel, you need to pick up a hose for irrigation.

The hose must be of a smaller diameter. In two of its three parts, many smallest holes are made, and then they are vertically placed in a pipe, and so that the whole part remains below, this will not allow the earth to become waterlogged.

Be sure to wrap the irrigation tube with sacking to prevent roots from sprouting into the holes!

For vertical cultivation of strawberries in poles, you need to cut round holes in the pipe up to 20 cm in diameter. This size is usually sufficient for the free development of the plant. In the lower part of the post, where watering will not be carried out, it is better not to plant strawberries and leave the pipe intact.

After installing the hose in a wide pipe, you need to dig the garden bed into the ground and cover it with gravel outside and inside for stability. The soil is poured gradually and, as it is filled, strawberries are planted.

Immediately after the end of the work, you can start watering. Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers should also be carried out using a hose and water.

There is also a second way to grow strawberries in pipes. If the first method is quite laborious, then the second will not require much effort to prepare the beds.

You need to pick up a pipe with a larger diameter and cut it in half lengthwise, then place and fix these halves in any convenient but windless place.

If you want to save more space, then you can make several levels of such a bed. They can be hung near the walls of the house, verandas, gazebos, and even on balconies.

Holes must be made in each of the halves for fastening the pipe. In order for such a bed to be firmly fixed, you need to take a steel cable, fishing line, chain or rope, thread it through the holes made and fix it in the right place.

Pot beds

Today, there are a large number of pots of different shapes on sale. To grow strawberries in pots, you need to take only a few containers from any material - ceramics, plastic, clay, - the main thing is that the lower pot is of the largest diameter, and the rest gradually taper.

It is possible to give stability to the structure if holes are made in the bottoms, add earth and "string" the containers onto a strong stick or metal pin.

After that, you can start planting and not be afraid that such a bed will fall from the wind or careless movement.

The pots can be placed not only on top of each other, but also nailed to a tree, or hung on a fence. It turns out not only saving space, but also an interesting decor.

Mesh beds

You can create a vertical strawberry bed based on a construction mesh. To do this, you need to take a segment of a suitable length, a certain amount of straw, as well as pre-prepared and fertilized soil. A pipe up to 90 cm is formed from the mesh, after which the two sides are firmly fastened. For greater stability, you can dig in the lower edges a little.

The straw must be laid on the sides in a dense layer so that later holes do not form in it and the earth does not spill out. At the very bottom, compost should be located and its amount will directly depend on the height and size of the future bed. The earth is laid on top, after which you can start planting bushes of garden strawberries.

The second method makes it possible to slightly expand the area occupied by the strawberries. A circle of the same diameter is made from a construction mesh, but instead of straw, a film is used. If the cells are large enough, then additional holes are made in the polyethylene, into which strawberries are planted.

If several such structures are built, then in this way it will definitely be possible to achieve a rich harvest.

Beds in bags

An unconventional and interesting way is to grow strawberries in bags. The manufacturing technology of such a vertical bed is quite simple, it is only important to choose the right material.

Natural burlap works best. A plastic bag will quickly lose its quality and will have to be changed often, and natural fabric will allow air and light to pass through.

Planting strawberries in bags is carried out not only in the upper part, but also on the sides - you just need to make small holes. You can additionally sew the bottom edge to make the whole structure more stable, and also make loops on top, for which a similar bed will be suspended from the fence.

The beds in the barrel

If you have one or more barrels on the site, then they will make an excellent strawberry bed, which can be placed in any convenient place. In addition, if you know how to paint, then a brightly painted barrel can also be a decorative decoration of the garden.

The main disadvantage of growing strawberries in a barrel is that the roots of plants in a metal container can overheat and, as a result, grow worse and give less harvest.

Therefore, it is better to install the drums in partial shade, or make small holes in them on the sides.

You can also plant strawberry bushes in additional holes, at the same time solving the issue of oxygen access and preventing plants from overheating. It is worth noting that watering, in this case, it is better to build the same as in the example with the installation of vertical pillars, this will help get rid of excessive moisture.

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