Information

AVA fertilizer - healthy harvest, land and us

AVA fertilizer - healthy harvest, land and us


The time for planting seedlings will come soon. So that your efforts to grow it are rewarded with a good harvest, fertilization is recommended before planting seedlings in the ground. For feeding seedlings, the complex mineral fertilizer AVA is ideally suited, which has unique properties that allow you to qualitatively nourish plants, get a high yield and preserve nature.
Fertilizer AVA dissolves in the soil gradually, over several years. This allows plants to independently choose the necessary and only correct diet for them.

The AVA fertilizer provides nutrition to the beneficial soil microflora, and is perfectly combined with plant protection products and organic fertilizers, enhancing and prolonging their effect.

AVA fertilizer does not harm the environment, because it does not contain harmful impurities and is safe for soil and groundwater. After assimilation of all macro- and microelements by plant roots, the fertilizer does not leave products in the soil leading to its chemical pollution. This quality favorably distinguishes the AVA fertilizer from all other classical mineral fertilizers used today.

AVA fertilizer is available in two forms - in the form of granules and powder.

The granular form has a prolonged action and dissolves in the soil for up to three years. This opens up great opportunities for using AVA as a basic fertilizer.

AVA fertilizer in powder form is valid for a year. It is recommended to use it for fertilizing the soil under annual crops and for seasonal feeding.

Apply AVA fertilizer when planting vegetable seedlings. This will improve the survival rate of seedlings, enhance the development of the root system and accelerate the flowering process. To do this, when planting seedlings in the ground, it is enough to add 3-5 g of fertilizer in the form of a powder to the root zone of the plant.

AVA fertilizer can be applied to the soil not only with seedlings, but also together with seeds. Use fertilizer AVA when sowing annual and perennial flowers, as well as vegetables and green crops. This will significantly increase seed germination and stress resistance of future plants.

Application of AVA fertilizer also gives excellent results when growing large ornamental and fruit plants (trees, shrubs) and feeding lawns.

Using AVA fertilizers, you fertilize the soil with high quality for a long time.

Choosing AVA fertilizer, you get:

  • Ease of use
  • Minimum soil application rates
  • Effective fertilizer action up to three years
  • A complete set of macro- and micronutrients
  • Acceleration of plant growth and development
  • Increased yield
  • Safety for people, animals, soil and groundwater

Grow more and better with AVA fertilizer for soil care!

Manufacturer: CJSC "AGROVIT",
St. Petersburg, st. Predportovaya, 8, lit. A (812) 777-01-41


Rule 1. Improvement of the structure

You can improve the structure of heavy soil by sanding - adding sand. When it is added, the density of the clay soil decreases and the soil begins to better allow air and moisture to pass through. This contributes to the activation of the activity of soil microflora, which in the future will have a positive effect on the productivity of agricultural crops. However, this method of improving heavy soil has a complication. To radically change the mechanical composition of clay soil, the amount of sand must be large enough: at least 15-30 kg per 1 sq. M.

In addition, you need to understand that sand, improving the structure of heavy soil, making it loose and lighter, in itself does not change the fertility of the soil and therefore does not have any benefits for plant nutrition.


AVA fertilizer - healthy harvest, land and we - garden and vegetable garden

  • For the health of the earth
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Provides acceleration of fruiting, the development of a powerful root system, an increase in the size of berries and an improvement in their taste properties, an increase in resistance to diseases, pests and adverse weather conditions.

Phosphorus (P2O5) - 50-54%, Potassium (K2O) - 22-24%, Calcium (CaO) - 8%, Magnesium (MgO) - 3%, Silicon (Si) - 1.5%.

Trace elements: Sulfur (S), Boron (B), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Cobalt (Co), Molybdenum (Mo), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), Selenium (Se).

Apply 3-5 g under the bush in the root growth zone. (5g. - 1/2 teaspoon).

Introduce 3 g into the active root growth zone.

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Genre: Garden and Vegetable Garden, Home and Family

Age restrictions: +12

Current page: 1 (the book has 23 pages in total) [available passage for reading: 8 pages]

Galina Aleksandrovna KizimaHarvest without hassle: garden, flower garden and vegetable garden

Who is this book for?

First of all, those who have little strength or not enough time to work day and even part of the night on their dear "six hundred square meters" without straightening their backs. Or there is simply no such desire. But you still want to have a harvest. Desirable, not entirely scanty. That is, in this book, an attempt is made to fulfill the long-standing dream of mankind about how to work this way, so as not to do anything, but at the same time receive something. And it is desirable to receive more. I call it Emelya's syndrome. Remember, there was such a hero in one of the Russian folk tales? So I tried to put together the experience gained by gardeners obsessed with this syndrome, including my own. I express special gratitude to the wonderful gardeners Valentina Nikolaevna Kovaleva, Lyubov Dmitrievna Bobrovskaya, the spouses Romanov, whose invaluable experience I have used in this book.

But don't flatter yourself. Nobody will be able to do anything at all, but it is quite possible to significantly reduce the most labor-intensive work on the site. How to achieve this and why this is, in principle, not only possible, but also correct, is exactly what is written in this book. Wow, dear comrades-in-arms, not only in mastering this book, but also in the practical application of what you have mastered!

And I also want to invite to our reasonably lazy ranks of amateur gardeners, both those who have reached the super-average age and have not yet reached that, because they, this category of gardeners, will still not escape over time. Let's build our database together. To do this, all of you can send your own achievements and skills in wise management on "six hundred square meters" by e-mail:

Galina Alexandrovna KIZIMA

The first season in the vegetable garden is easy

Potatoes

Before planting potatoes, the tubers must be prepared.

1. They must be washed, then put in a bowl, filled with hot water (+45 ° C) and held in this water until it cools down to room temperature.

Dilute potassium permanganate separately (potassium permanganate - potassium permanganate) and gradually add to a bowl of tubers, stirring until the water turns pink. Let stand for 15 minutes, remove, drain the water, rinse and dry the tubers. This is done in order to remove pathogens from the surface of the tubers.

Note. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a solution Fitosporin, for which a small amount of the drug is diluted in water to obtain an almost transparent solution. Pour the tubers with this solution for half an hour. Then, without rinsing them with water, dry them.

2. Put tubers in the light for greening for 15–20 days. This is done so that corned beef plant poison forms in the subcutaneous layer. Such greened tubers are not touched by rodents or gnawing insects. The easiest way to keep the dried tubers in glass jars on the windowsill is to turn the jars from time to time. Or arrange the tubers in a single layer on newspapers on cabinets or window sills.

3. Then the tubers must be germinated, for this they must be removed to a dark and warm place. It is convenient to lay them out in cardboard boxes in one layer, not too close to each other (to give freedom to the sprouts), then lay a layer of newspapers and lay out two more layers, interlayering them with newspapers, close the box and put on a stool near the battery. It is undesirable to put a box on the floor, since the temperature on the floor is much lower and the tubers will germinate unevenly. It will take about two to three weeks for sprouts 4–5 cm long to form.

So, it takes about one to one and a half months to prepare the tubers for planting.

You can start planting when bird cherry begins to bloom in your region, and even MUCH earlier, as soon as the topmost layer of soil dries out.

4. Mark the garden bed right on the virgin soil, despite the fact that there you have begun to grow weeds. Never dig the ground!

5. Sprouted tubers will be laid out directly on non-dug soil, it is more convenient to make two rows at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, and the tubers will be laid out in each row 25 cm apart. It is necessary to leave 20-25 cm from each row to the edge of the garden. Thus, the width of the planting will be 80-100 cm, you can take any length, but you need to know that for each meter of planting you will need four tubers in one row and four in the other. It is best to plant tubers the size of a chicken egg (there are about 20 such tubers in one kilogram of such tubers), because such a tuber contains just as many nutrients as the plant needs to grow up to 25-30 cm and have time to develop a good root system.

If you plant too small tubers, then it is better to put 2-3 tubers in one nest at once, otherwise there will be too few stems, and, accordingly, the yield will be small. If you put too large tubers, then with a large amount of nutrition, the aerial part will grow, and the development of the roots will be delayed. Therefore, large tubers must be cut in advance along the tuber so that there are approximately the same number of sprouts on each part (there are much more eyes in the upper than in the lower, therefore, it is necessary to cut along, and not across). Let them lie down for two days to cork the slices, then sprinkle with ashes and only then plant (otherwise rotting bacteria will penetrate into the tubers through the slices).

The number of sprouts awakened on each tuber can be increased (naturally, the more stems, the greater the yield). To do this, on each tuber a week before planting, you need to make a deep cut across the tuber with a sharp knife. Or simply peel off the skin in the middle of the tuber with a thin strip around the tuber in the transverse direction. This will cause the dormant reserve buds on the skin at the bottom of the tuber to wake up and, accordingly, get additional stems from the tuber.

6. In one row, it is better to plant super-early potatoes in order to feast on young potatoes as early as possible, and in the second row plant a mid-season variety so that young potatoes are enough until the end of the season.

The potato bed must be in the sun all day, otherwise the tops will be huge and the tubers small.

Early potato varieties are ready for consumption 60–70 days after germination (Early spring, Lark, Bullfinch, Luck, Anosta, Prior, Latona, Ostara, Skala). They can be eaten in this region from mid-July. These varieties should be removed in early August, otherwise they will simply rot in the ground.

Medium early varieties are ready for consumption in 70-80 days (Nevsky, Sineglazka, Detskoselsky, Elizabeth, Charodey, Fairy Tale, Rainbow, Naiad, Sante, Impala) and should be harvested at the end of August. Mid-season varieties are ready in 80-90 days (Lugovskoy, Petersburg, Shaman, Resource, Granola), they should be removed in early September.

7. Now the most important thing is to protect potatoes from spring frosts. To do this, cover the rows of potatoes with dry, breathable material. Hay is best suited for this, but not straw (straw is not good, because it will immediately attract rodents to planting, which will devour young nodules as soon as they appear, leaving you with a nose). You can use dry leaves or simply rake the top, but always dry, layer from the compost heap. If you haven't prepared a covering material since autumn, then you can use black and white newspapers or wrapping paper. To do this, the newspapers must be torn into pieces, crumpled and filled with potatoes. It is not necessary to fill up the aisles. To prevent the wind from crushing the shelter, cover the garden with old lutrasil (spunbond) or bags. The film should not be used (everything will start to rot under it). When the frost is over, you can remove the lutrasil and begin to put everything that you usually put in the compost on the garden bed. Pour the slops between the rows, and put the cut grass, weeds weeds all over the bed, directly on the hay or newspapers, but without overwhelming the potato seedlings. All summer, you will continue to put compost on the potato bed, spudding the growing potatoes not with earth, but with weeds.

There is one danger here. Compost, overcooking, settles, and young tubers may be exposed and, consequently, turn green. This cannot be allowed, therefore, when you bring the next batch of weeds, look where you need to add it so that the tubers do not become exposed.

Do I need to add anything when planting potatoes? No, it is not necessary, because all the nutrients necessary for potatoes are in plant residues.

Do I need to feed potatoes during the season? No, it is not necessary for the same reason.

Do the potatoes planted in this way need to be watered? No, it is not necessary, because plants, however, like you and me, are 75-80% water, which is released during decomposition and flows down to the roots.

Will the perennial weeds on which we spread the potatoes grow? No, they will not germinate, they will die under the compost without light, and in just one season their roots will also die. In the fall, you will see for yourself by lifting the compost heap to the soil.

8. As you know, tubers do not grow on the roots of potatoes, but on horizontal shoots growing on the lower part of the stems, called stolons. These shoots don't need land, they need darkness. They will grow not only in compost, but even under empty hoods made of opaque material. So don't worry about that. As soon as the potatoes begin to bloom, the tubers on the stolons begin to grow at the same time. Potatoes spend a lot of energy on seed reproduction through flowering, therefore, if you do not allow it to bloom, then it will direct all its forces to vegetative propagation, increasing the tubers. Please note that almost all foreign potato varieties practically do not bloom! This is one of the areas of potato breeding. Flowers and seeds are not needed, tubers are needed. Of course, breaking off nascent buds in a large field is unrealistic, but here we are talking about a couple of potato beds in a small area, so I advise you to break off the tops of the potatoes as soon as the plants close in the rows. Firstly, you will stop the excess growth of potato tops, and secondly, you will get 2-3 additional tubers. I usually leave one bunch of flowers on one variety and another on the other. As soon as the flowers begin to wilt, I go to harvest the first tubers. To do this, it is enough to move the compost layer and select the largest, cleanest tubers lying directly on the ground, and then gently push the compost into place. Since damage to the stolons does not occur with this method of digging, they continue to grow the next tubers as if nothing had happened.

9. When the harvest from the early row is selected, I spread the tops on top of the row to dry, and so I leave it in the garden. Usually, it is not recommended to put the tops of tomatoes and potatoes in compost because of the solanine contained in it, but under the influence of the sun, rain and air, solanine is destroyed (therefore, it is better to dry the tops first). This will happen in your potato garden, so there is no need to drag the tops anywhere for drying. Leave directly on the surface of the bed and do not cover it with weeds on top. If they continue to grow all over the site, then take the weeded out to another place, for example, to fill the feces from the toilet. Do the same with the second row of a later grade.

10. You leave the undisturbed compost heap, which remained in your place of the garden with potatoes, to winter as it is.

Unripe compost usually has a slightly acidic and even acidic reaction, which gradually becomes neutral as it overheats. Potatoes are quite tolerant of the slightly acidic and even acidic reaction of the soil (pH 4.5–5.5).

So, you just plant potatoes, you don't do anything (you don't dig, you don't huddle, you don't water, you don't feed and don't dig up), but you just harvest. And weeds and mown grass still have to be carried somewhere, so it is better to carry it immediately to the potato planting site, but then you will not need to carry the rotted compost somewhere again. It is not required to take out the tops from the garden. How wonderful it is - doing nothing, eating your own potatoes all summer!

In the northern regions, it is better to plant potatoes of early varieties (readiness 60-70 days after germination), since they leave from the phytophthora (Spring, Lark, Bullfinch, Luck), and also because they contain a large amount of starch (up to 20%), and therefore tasty. Mid-early varieties (70-80 days) are also suitable for these regions: Nevsky, Sineglazka, Elizaveta, Oredezhsky, Charodey, Fairy Tale, Rainbow, Naiad. Mid-season varieties (80–90 days) fall under late blight, and therefore varieties resistant to this disease should be planted: Lugovskoy, Petersburg, Resource, Shaman, Granola. Planting late varieties in northern climates is futile.

Some additional useful information about potatoes

This information is intended for those who prefer to grow potatoes in the old fashioned way or allot large areas for planting them, and one or two beds are not enough for him.

1. The homeland of the potato is Argentina and Peru, from there he came to his second home in Chile. Columbus brought him to Europe, Peter the Great took him out of Holland to Russia, and only under Catherine II was it possible to introduce the peasantry to him, which desperately resisted this. There were even potato riots, and not only in Russia. Very quickly, potatoes became the second bread in the whole world, and now it’s even strange how we did without it.

2. The origin of potatoes from hot countries determines its requirements for growing conditions: it is thermophilic, photophilous, relatively drought-resistant.

Moisture-rich and breathable warm soil, although it can grow on relatively dense and poor soils. He prefers slightly acidic or neutral soils (pH 5-6), but tolerates acidic soils, while the yield naturally decreases. This plant loves light. The potato field must be illuminated by the sun all day, otherwise the potatoes will grow large tops, but will not give a good harvest of tubers. He is responsive to mineral feeding, while he belongs to potassium lovers, that is, he needs high doses of potassium, but he also needs nitrogen, but in moderation, otherwise he gets scab. By the way, scab on potatoes can also appear with increased doses of calcium. Therefore, it is recommended to deacidify the soil in the potato field in the fall.

4. What does a potato dislike?

He does not like fresh manure, excessive doses of nitrogen (potatoes become sick with scab on nitrogenous soils), fertilizers containing chlorine, shading, excess moisture in the soil, prolonged cold snap, thickened plantings, which impair lighting. In addition, thickening of plantings causes early late blight disease.

5. If the soil has become very compacted during the winter, then before planting, you will have to do a shallow digging to a depth of only 7-10 cm, using a Fokin plane cutter or a hoe, but not a shovel.

6. Potatoes begin to germinate only when the soil warms up in the tuber zone to + 12-15 ° C, therefore, in regions with a cold climate, potatoes should not be planted deeply, that is, “on a shovel's bayonet”. On clay soils and loams, the optimal planting depth is about 7 cm, and on sands and sandy loam soils - no more than 10–12 cm. Then the potatoes will be in the upper heated layer of soil and will quickly start growing. When planting deeply (“on the bayonet of a shovel”), the temperature in the root zone will be only + 7–8 ° C. The root system will not develop and small nodules may start growing on the mother's tubers right away.

7. For planting, you should take tubers the size of a chicken egg.They will need about 400 pieces per hundred square meters.

8. As with growing potatoes without difficulty, about a month before planting, the tubers should be warmed up by flooding them with hot water (+ 42–45 ° C). As soon as the water cools down, add a bright pink potassium permanganate solution and hold the tubers in it for 15 minutes. Then drain the water, rinse the tubers with cold water and dry. After that, you need to put the tubers in the light in a cool place so that they turn green - they form solanine poison, which will protect the potatoes after planting from many pests, including mice. After 20 days, the tubers must be moved to a dark and warm place for germination.

Pre-germinating the tubers for two weeks speeds up the harvest.

9. If your soil is poor, you will have to apply either organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Presowing application rate of mineral fertilizers: 2.5 kg N (nitrogen), 2.5 kg P2ABOUT5 (phosphorus), 2.5 kg K2About (potassium) per hundred square meters.

Azophoska is best suited for this, but the addition of chlorine-free potassium is required. Better yet, use the excellent universal fertilizer of the Buisk plant. WMD (organo-mineral fertilizer). It is irrational to spread fertilizer over the entire area. It is better to add it under each tuber when planting in a hole, mixing it with soil. It will take about one incomplete tablespoon under the azofoska tuber plus an incomplete teaspoon of potassium fertilizer (potassium sulfate, potassium carbonate, potassium salt, potassium magnesium). Or one tablespoon WMD (universal organo-mineral fertilizer of the Buisk plant). If you do not have mineral fertilizers on hand, use ash 2-3 tablespoons under the tuber. The fertilizer must be mixed with the soil and only then put the tuber in the hole. It is not recommended to pollinate the tuber with ash, although this has become widespread, since it causes a chemical shock in the sprouts and delays their development for about a week. This can be easily verified by planting two tubers next to each other, pollinated and non-pollinated, marking one of them with a stick. The seedlings of the pollinated tuber will be delayed for several days.

Fertilizer can be used instead of azofoska AVA... It can be placed directly under the tuber as it does not cause any chemical shock or burns. Enough 3-4 granules for each tuber for the whole season. But it is better to put the powder fraction of this fertilizer under the tuber, only one third of a teaspoon under the tuber (about 2-3 g). You will need about 400 tubers per hundred square meters, that is, you use about 800 g of fertilizer.

AVA in powder form, it is used by plants in one season. It will cost about 300 rubles. If you apply 7.5 kg of azophoska and about 2 kg of potassium to the same area, as required by potatoes, then you will pay about the same amount for fertilization. In addition to the main nutrients - phosphorus and potassium - AVA contains 9 more microelements necessary to obtain a full harvest. AVA does not contain nitrogen. But when fertilizing is applied in the soil, microorganisms begin to develop rapidly - nitrogen fixers, which will saturate the soil with nitrogen from the air.

10. It is better to plant potatoes in furrows directed from south to north for better lighting of the bushes. The distance between furrows is 70–75 cm, between tubers - 30–35 cm. If the groundwater is close to the soil surface or the potato field is located in an area with high humidity, then it is better to plant potatoes on the ridges in areas with arid climates or on sandy soils. it is better to plant it in trenches. Ridges and trenches are made from south to north. Sand should be added to dense soils. The easiest way is to simply sprinkle it along with ash or mineral fertilizers when planting under each tuber (about a glass). The potatoes will be clean and less likely to be damaged by the wireworm. In the trenches harvested in the fall, it would be good to add mowed grass or chopped weeds and lightly sprinkle them with soil on top. It is convenient to huddle, simply pouring the soil from the ridges with a rake directed with the tines upward, backward along the ridge.

The grown tubers can also be planted directly on the soil at the base of each ridge. They laid it out and, backward along the ridge, threw the soil from its top onto the tubers - that's the whole planting. Such a job can be easily handled by one frail old woman, and not just a healthy man.

11. The aboveground part of the potato dies at –1 ° C, and the tubers themselves can tolerate a drop in temperature down to –2 ° C and even –5 ° C. Generally speaking, nothing terrible will happen if the tops of the potato seedlings freeze. New stems will grow from the axils of the leaves, but, of course, this will delay the harvest by 10-12 days. When harvesting or buying potatoes, frozen tubers must be quickly thawed in hot water (+40 ° C), then they will not have a sweet taste. But of course, frozen potatoes are poorly stored. And thawed in hot water should be used as food as soon as possible.

12. Potatoes are relatively drought-resistant, therefore, generally speaking, they do not need watering, especially at an early age, since the mother tuber has enough moisture and nutrients. The need for moisture increases at the moment of bud formation. Simultaneously with the appearance of buds on the lower part of the stems, horizontal layers - stolons - begin to grow in the soil on which tubers that need moisture are laid. At this crucial moment, in dry weather, one, but abundant watering is required. It is better not to pour water on top of the tops, but pour it under the root or in the aisles. Additionally, a couple of times per season it is necessary to loosen the row spacings. Loosening is called dry irrigation because it prevents moisture from evaporating from the soil and increases the flow of air to the roots. For regions with wet summers, loosening is better than watering. Loosening of the row spacings helps to easily control weeds, this is especially important in the initial period of plant growth, moreover, the wireworm does not like loosening and after 4–5 loosening in the initial period leaves the potato field.

13. Since the crop is formed in the soil, the higher the potatoes are spud, the greater the crop. Usually potatoes are spud twice, and in areas with spring frosts three times: the first time, when the seedlings just appear, the second time - when they grow to a height of 15–20 cm, the third - 10–15 days after the second. In the first hilling, the seedlings are completely covered up in order to protect them from frost. In the second and third - to cover the stems with soil as high as possible. As soon as the bushes close in the furrows, hilling should no longer be done, because this can lead to breakage of the stems.

Usually, potatoes are piled up, raking up the soil to the plants, which shifts the stems all together. In this case, the stolons only grow outward. If you huddle potatoes into collapse, that is, pushing the stems apart, then the stolons grow not only outward, but also inward, which gives another 2-4 additional tubers in each bush.

14. Do you need to cut the buds?

If the potato field is small, then it is necessary, because it is not so difficult, but gives an additional 2-3 tubers from the bush. By breaking off the buds, you prevent the potatoes from propagating by seeds, and it enhances vegetative reproduction by tubers, without spending energy on bud formation, flowering and growing seeds, and all this requires considerable effort. The buds should be torn off along with the top of the plants (that is, they should be edged). This technique stops the growth of potatoes up, which is also important, since it gives the potatoes an additional opportunity to spend all their energy on the growth of tubers.

15. As soon as the dying off (yellowing, drying) of the lower leaves begins, the harvest is formed and the tops should be cut off immediately. Start digging the potatoes about 12-15 days after mowing.

With the usual method of cultivation, the mowed tops must be removed from the potato field. It must first be dried, and then burned or put in compost. Undried potato tops should not be composted as they contain the poison solanine and are usually contaminated with late blight. Potato tops, however, like dried potato peelings, greatly enrich the ash with mineral elements, especially calcium, potassium and trace elements. Naturally, the ash contains neither phytophthora nor solanine. It has been noticed that burning dry potato peelings in a kiln burns through the chimneys. We haven't cleaned them for almost 15 years.

16. What is the benefit of mowing tops?

Firstly, late blight will not infest tubers when digging potatoes (this is very important when storing potatoes). Secondly, the growth of tubers will stop, and their peel will become coarser, respectively, they will be less damaged during digging and transportation, which means less deterioration during storage.

17. It is necessary to harvest potatoes in dry, sunny weather. After digging up the potatoes, leave them to lie in the air for several hours so that the tubers dry out - there will be less soil on the tubers. Then you should carefully examine the nests of tubers and select tubers the size of a chicken egg for planting material next year. They should be taken only from productive nests.

If the potatoes are clean, they must be spread out for two days to dry under a canopy, after sprinkling with a solution Fitosporin, to destroy pathogens that have fallen on tubers from the soil. If it is dirty, then naturally, it should first be rinsed in water and then sprayed Fitosporin. After that, lay it out to dry for 3-4 days under a roof so that it does not get wet from the rains. Then the potatoes are placed in bags or boxes and stored. The best storage temperature is around +4 ° C. Before storing, it is useful to let the potatoes lie in a dark, cool room for two weeks. Then it is laid out in boxes and put away in a cellar or other storage. You can store potatoes in piles or caissons.

18. Do I need to feed potatoes during the growing season?

It is not necessary if, during planting, you applied mineral fertilizers at the above rate. If the potato develops slowly, its foliage is small and light, then feed it with an infusion of weeds, but not manure, since manure can cause scab, and even worse - rot of tubers. Pour the top dressing per liter under the plant.


AVA fertilizer - healthy harvest, land and we - garden and vegetable garden

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Phosphorus, potassium and trace elements contribute to early and more amicable ripening of fruits, increase the resistance of seedlings to various diseases and pests.

Phosphorus (P2O5) - 50-54%, Potassium (K2O) - 22-24%, Calcium (CaO) - 8%, Magnesium (MgO) - 3%, Silicon (Si) - 1.5%.

Trace elements: Sulfur (S), Boron (B), Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Cobalt (Co), Molybdenum (Mo), Zinc (Zn), Copper (Cu), Selenium (Se).

Berry bushes (gooseberries, raspberries, currants, etc.):
20-50 g (depending on size)

Fruit trees (3-5 years old):
30-50 g (depending on size)

Mature trees:
100-150 g (depending on size).
Granules are introduced into the root zone (along the perimeter of the crown) to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Bush seedlings:
30-50 g per pit 70x70 cm

Tree seedlings:
50-100 g per hole 100x100 cm.
The fertilizer works in the soil for 3 years, but next year we recommend adding AVA as a top dressing, because the plant will grow.

Coniferous and decorative crops:
5-7 g - height up to 0.5 m
12-15 g - height up to 0.5-1 m
20 g - height up to 1.5-3 m

AVA for trees and shrubs is used as a basic fertilizer or in combination with organic fertilizers. When planting, evenly distribute the granules under the plant, for planted plants - around the plants in the zone of active root growth.

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Cope with the harmful aphids, mercilessly devouring stems, leaves and fruits of plants, nettle infusion will help. To prepare a miracle cure, pour two kilograms of nettle leaves with a bucket of water and leave to infuse for a day. Pour the resulting infusion into a spray bottle and use to treat the most vulnerable plants.


Before planting onions, generously fertilize the soil for the intended beds with used and dried tea leaves. Such a simple and affordable tool will enrich the soil with the necessary minerals and trace elements and subsequently get a rich and healthy harvest.


Watch the video: Mahakosh Soybean Oil Manufacturing Process at Indore, Madhya Pradesh. PatanjaliRuchisoya