Work plan for preparing the greenhouse for winter

Work plan for preparing the greenhouse for winter

Greenhouses and greenhouses reliably shelter crops from adverse weather conditions and, with adequate maintenance, significantly reduce the risk of pests or diseases. Preparing the greenhouse for winter is one of the most important maintenance procedures.

The importance of preparation

The main purpose of the greenhouse is to protect the crops from cold, drafts and heavy rainfall. The design provides constant optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of plants. However, favorable conditions are not only for plants, but also for some types of pests. Also, a warm and humid environment promotes the development of weeds, which draw nutrients necessary for planted crops from the soil. It is also possible that any fungal spores may get in, which can perfectly survive the winter and destroy the seedlings in the spring.

One of these factors may be sufficient to destroy the crop. Therefore, the foundation for a successful future harvest is laid in the fall by means of general harvesting and final processing of all parts of the greenhouse. The work on the preparation of the greenhouse is carried out in two main directions: preparation of the soil in the beds for the next season and disinfecting treatment of construction details (frame, coating material).

Video "Preparing the greenhouse for winter"

In this video, a specialist will share recommendations on how to properly prepare a greenhouse for the winter period.


After harvesting, the beds must be freed from the remnants of annual crops. For cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, remove the remaining aboveground and underground parts. The remnants of the fruit are also removed. It is best to burn them or bury them outside the site. With perennial crops, the situation is more complicated. They must be carefully checked, damaged, dried or rotted parts removed.

If most of the plant is damaged, then it is removed by the root. And next season, new ones are being planted in their place. It is important to remove not only crop residues, but also weeds. Most of them are perennial, so you need to carefully check the land for their presence.


When growing annual crops (vegetables, berries, flowers), the topsoil must be removed annually. Replacing the soil and its further processing is the most difficult task, on the correct implementation of which the result of the future harvest depends. Usually, at least 15 cm of the top layer is removed, which, after disinfection, can be poured onto open beds, flower beds, and into the garden. Instead of the removed layer of soil, fresh fertile soil is poured. Fresh fertile soil can be purchased or prepared yourself. Each of these options has advantages and disadvantages.

It is faster and easier to buy ready-made soil, but one cannot be completely sure that it contains all the necessary useful components. There are times when land taken in another greenhouse is sold as new soil. This option is completely unprofitable: the soil is not only completely depleted, but can be infected with a pest or fungal spores.

The second option is to prepare the soil yourself. It is more labor-intensive and will take more time, since the soil must meet certain criteria: correct structure, high degree of nutritional value, absence of mineral salts, neutral pH-level, level of moisture content. The classic soil composition for a greenhouse consists of raised peat, river or lake sand, compost or humus.


Pests and fungal spores tolerate winter in a heifer perfectly. Their place of refuge can be not only the soil, but also the details of the structure. That is why disinfection must be carried out in a comprehensive manner.


According to the advice of experienced gardeners, soil disinfection should be carried out in three proven ways: treat with bleach, fumigate with sulfur, and spray with a special solution. Bleach is scattered over the bed and spread along the ground using a deep rake. For fumigation, sulfur is mixed with kerosene and set on fire in the far corner towards the exit. The greenhouse is then closed for a few days.

You can also use sulfur checkers. Sulfur fumigation is only suitable for tall structures with non-metallic frames, as the fumes emitted can corrode the metal. As a solution for spraying, diluted copper sulfate, aqueous formalin, lime (4%) and creolin (2%) are suitable.

Frame and cover

During sulfur processing, disinfection is carried out not only of the soil, but also of all parts of the greenhouse. Frameworks are processed depending on the material from which they are made. Metallic ones are washed with boiling water with the addition of vinegar, painted over with enamel. PVC can also be treated with a vinegar solution, but with a temperature not exceeding 60 ° C. It is recommended to use copper sulphate (10% solution) for wooden frames.

Coating processing also depends on the material. The plastic film is washed with soapy water, disinfected with copper sulfate and dried. Glass can also be treated with a solution of a bar of soap (high in alkali content) and boiling water. Polycarbonate cannot be treated with active alkali. It is recommended to use an intense hot solution of potassium permanganate.

It is important to thoroughly rinse all hard-to-reach places in which danger in the form of infections or pest larvae can hide. After disinfection, the greenhouse must be dried and ventilated.

Sowing useful plants

To disinfect the soil, fertilize it and improve the structure, green manures are planted in the ground in the fall. You can use white mustard, vetch, phacelia. The grown siderates are left for the winter without embedding them in the soil, although some gardeners prefer to cut the plants and cover them with soil for the winter.


If you plan to use the greenhouse in winter, you need to take care of its insulation. Depending on the type of construction and covering material, you need to choose the best insulation method for your greenhouse.

Fundamental rules

To provide comfortable conditions for plants and not damage the structure, you must:

  • strengthen the frame;
  • insulate all parts of the greenhouse (foundation, vestibule or door zone, and the entire structure as a whole);
  • use the best option for your type of greenhouse (heating, air gap, insulation with expanded polystyrene);
  • take care of disinfection of the materials used for disinfection.

Materials (edit)

Greenhouses are insulated in various ways and materials. For glass and polycarbonate greenhouses, heating systems are used whenever possible. A more economical option is insulation with expanded polystyrene, another layer of film or polycarbonate with an air gap. In the off-season, you can use plastic water bottles lined up in rows, which, thanks to the sun's rays, will absorb heat during the day, and give it back at night.

Do not be lazy to prepare the greenhouse for winter in the fall according to all the rules, and you will be guaranteed an excellent harvest!

Preparing the greenhouse for winter: 5 tips from the Vladimir branch of the Russian Agricultural Center

There are greenhouses in almost every household plot. Someone builds them from glass, someone puts film, someone installs universal ones - from polycarbonate. But in any case, no matter what greenhouse you have, it is important to take a number of measures to care for it. As a rule, they do this with the onset of autumn cold weather, after harvesting, because the quality and quantity of the crop obtained in it next year directly depends on how correctly the greenhouse overwinters.

He talks about exactly how to prepare the greenhouse for winter and what to do to make it last longer. specialist of the branch of the Federal State Budgetary Institution "Rosselkhoztsentr" in the Vladimir region, deputy head of the seed production department Yana Balakhnina.

Why do you need to prepare a greenhouse for winter

Greenhouse conditions are necessary for plants to protect themselves from their main enemy - cold. Inside the greenhouse, thanks to the ingenious design and materials from which it is made, a constant temperature and humidity is maintained, which the plants need for successful development. But precisely because of this ability of the greenhouse to create favorable conditions for plants, there is a danger that weeds and pathogens will also feel great in a warm and humid environment. The bacteria preserved in the greenhouse after harvesting will safely survive the winter, and in the spring they will pounce on young seedlings. You don't have to wait for the harvest.

Therefore, preparation does not involve protection from winter cold, as is done with perennials or young tree seedlings, but cleaning and final processing of all components of the greenhouse.

Autumn processing of the greenhouse includes two main areas of work:

  • tidying up the soil in greenhouse beds
  • disinfection of the structure (frame, covering material).

You should start with tillage. And it is necessary to start work before the onset of severe cold weather.

November is the pre-winter, followed by deep autumn. The soil either freezes or thaws. The days are getting shorter and darker. In the evenings, "clouds" spread over the lowlands: November is considered the most foggy month of the year. The garden is empty and light - both berries and fruit trees are bare. Annual tree branches twitch with a layer of dead cells, which keeps air in the voids - a good heat insulator. So delicate twigs will tolerate frost better.

Most of the garden work has been completed, including replanting and planting.

However, before the onset of frost, there is still work to prepare plants for wintering:

  • Collect the tool, clean, dry and lubricate with machine oil, grease or shoe polish.
  • Cover the compost with plastic wrap to keep it from freezing.
  • Make furrows across the slope on the site so that the top fertile layer is not washed away when the snow melts.
  • In wind-blown areas, place shields, spread spruce branches and other improvised means for snow retention.
  • Mulch the trunks with peat or manure and insulate with foliage with a layer of 10-15 cm thick.
  • Heal the wounds on the tree trunks, whitewash the trunks and main branches.
  • Cover the strawberry beds with peat or spruce branches.

Master's business:

  • Drain pipes, hoses and tubs.
  • Tilt the small containers upside down, cover the large ones with boards, and then both with plastic wrap.
  • Repair leaking hoses.
  • Clean out the gutters.
  • Continue composting and composting fallen leaves and other plant debris from your garden before it snows. For the winter, cover the pile with earth, boards, newspapers or kraft paper, and on top with a film or non-woven material so that the compost mass does not freeze too much.
  • If this has not been done before, proceed with greenhouse conservation.: inspect and paint the frames, insert new glass if necessary, renew the putty. The frames are stored under a roof, preferably in a dry and closed room, on stands and laid out with boards.
  • Strengthen piles, cellars, storage facilities. Pay close attention to the storage regime for fresh and processed fruits and vegetables.
  • In warm autumn, even in November, it is not too late to calcify the soil on your site if it is too acidic.

Work calendar in the garden for November

Protecting tree trunks

  • For reliable protection from mice and hares, tie the tree trunks with spruce branches or install cylinders of roofing material or fine mesh around them.

Protection of young animals

  • It is better not to whitewash the trunks and skeletal branches of young trees, but to wrap them with paper.
  • Install a roofing felt case on top, the lower end of which is buried in the ground.
  • Young trees can also be tied with spruce branches with the tips of the needles down.
  • This measure will also protect trees from rodents.

Freedom for the currants!

  • Do not tie currant branches into a bunch.
  • From this it will freeze more severely, and the harvest next year will decrease.

Snow on the branches

  • Heavy wet snowfall can lead to tearing of crowns or to the breaking of individual branches, if there are still leaves on them.
  • It is at this time that you need to help the trees shake off the snow.

Cuttings for winter grafting

  • Annual shoots for winter and spring grafting are cut after the first frost.
  • Cut off the cuttings from the south side of the crown, from strong and productive trees.
  • Branches should be up to 40 cm long with normally developed buds.
  • Do not take branches with closely spaced buds.
  • Tie cuttings of the same variety in a bunch and wrap in a damp cloth, then in paper, and wrap with foil on top.
  • Place the cuttings in a cool place.

Protect strawberries from frost

  • Garden strawberries, with their shallow root system, do not tolerate frost well.
  • Lowering the temperature to -8 ° C leads to damage to the roots and rhizomes.
  • A layer of snow of 10-12 cm will protect plants from frosts down to -18 ° C, and 20-25 cm - and from more severe ones.
  • In November, with the onset of light frosts and the absence of snow, strawberry plants can receive significant damage, so it is better to cover them with tree foliage, spruce branches or dry peat.

Work calendar in the garden for November

Winter crops

  • In the first decade of November, winter sowing of carrots, parsley and spinach is carried out in the beds prepared in October.
  • If the soil is frozen, then sow directly on the frozen soil and sprinkle with thawed earth, peat or humus.

Storing vegetables

  • Keep an eye on the temperature in the storages: at temperatures above 5 ° C, increase ventilation.
  • Onions can lie in living quarters, while spring and winter garlic is best placed in the refrigerator.
  • Onion sets with a diameter of more than 1 cm are stored at a temperature of 18-25 ° C and a relative humidity of 50-70%.
  • In the refrigerator at a temperature of -1-3 ° C and an air humidity of 80-90%, small onion sets are well stored and then do not shoot.
  • Do not throw away the onion peel: an infusion from it, prepared at the rate of 200 g per 10 liters of water, will be useful in the fight against spider mites: in winter - on indoor plants, and in summer - on cucumbers.

Greenhouse affairs

  • If there is only one greenhouse on the site, where the same crops are grown every year, then the land is supposed to be changed so that there are no root rot and other diseases, the infectious principle of which remains in the ground.
  • The entire root layer is changed every 4-5 years, and the layer is 5-7 cm annually.
  • Greenhouse soil saturated with fertilizers can be scattered into the beds where cabbage, onions, and root crops will grow.

It's time for blanks

  • In November, when the main work in the garden and vegetable garden is completed, he begins to salt, or rather, sauer the cabbage. Mid-season Russian varieties of white cabbage are considered the best for pickling: Slava Gribovskaya 231, Slava 1305, Podarok, Belorusskaya 455, Nadezhda, late-ripening varieties, with the exception of Moskovskaya Late 15, are intended for long-term storage and solku are not suitable.
  • In winter, frozen vegetables are convenient for "quick cooking", and they are stored much longer than fresh ones. Peel the vegetables, rinse, dry on a towel, put in plastic bags or boxes and place in the freezer, preferably in small portions - for one cooking. For winter and spring, you can prepare a lot of dried vegetables. Mixtures of carrots and white roots (parsley, celery, parsnips) are very useful and convenient.

Work calendar in a flower garden for November

Both the benefit and the harm

  • Fresh snow, on the one hand, protects the plants by wrapping them from frost like a warm cotton blanket.
  • But large amounts of heavy sleet or ice crust on branches can harm your pets.
  • If you do not have time to constantly shake off fresh snow from the branches, prop up the old and weak branches of the trees with a wooden pitchfork, and tie the columnar ornamental shrubs not very tightly in several places, connecting their branches.

Rock gardens suffer the most from dampness during the period of snow melting.

  • Therefore, make sure that the soil there is sufficiently light and permeable.
  • Cover delicate plants with a layer of fallen leaves, spruce branches, or glass, plastic or terracotta caps.

Protection of tulips

  • For planting tulips, spread poisoned baits from mice, slightly sprinkle them with earth so that the birds do not chew.
  • If it snows, shovel it up, place the bait on the ground and refill it with snow.

Summer sowing

  • When sub-zero temperatures are established and the ground freezes a little, you can start sowing decorative summer plants in winter, such as blue cornflower, gypsophila, godetia, delphinium, iberis, calendula, lavatera, lobularia, poppy, mattiola, nigella, eschsholzia.
  • Seeds are sown in grooves, in prepared soil, a little thicker and deeper than in spring, and the crops are sprinkled with peat or compost.
  • To preserve snow, under which the temperature is more even, the crops are covered with spruce branches.

Protect your lawn

  • Inspect your lawn and make sure any weeds you sprayed in the last month are dying.
  • Repeat processing if necessary.
  • Use a garden fork to make holes in the surface of the lawn - this will saturate the soil with oxygen ("aeration" in the scientific sense)
  • Scatter a thin layer of limestone or bird droppings over the surface of the lawn.
  • This operation is called "liming the soil" - a procedure recommended after many years of lawn fertilization.
  • Feeding tired areas of your lawn is a good preparation for the winter season.
  • Try not to walk on frozen grass. Trampled, it will die, and as a result, black areas will remain on the lawn. Do not walk on the lawn in wet weather - this compresses the soil and suppresses the growth of grass.

See also: Lawn care in autumn

Early pansies

  • Pansies from frost can be covered with spruce branches and a snowdrift can be piled on top.
  • These plants overwinter well under the snow and are among the first to bloom in early spring the next year.

Dahlia Mode

  • Monitor compliance with the storage regime for dahlia root tubers.
  • They should be packed in boxes lined with foil and sprinkled with wet sand, peat or sawdust.
  • Storage temperature - 4-8 ° C, relative humidity 70%.
  • If the root tubers begin to dry out, moisten the substrate.
  • If rot appears, clean it out, fill the wound with a burgundy solution of potassium permanganate and replace the substrate with a fresh and drier one.

How to store gladiolus bulbs

  • After a month of drying, the gladiolus bulbs are properly cleaned and discarded.
  • Healthy bulbs are placed in gauze bags.
  • Fill them by one third, and the bulbs are laid out by grade.
  • The bags are placed in one layer in boxes and stored at a temperature of 4-6 ° C and an air humidity of 70%.

Bright inflorescences: Campsis

  • Campsis (Campsis) is cultivated in many countries of the world.
  • This vine has beautiful leaves, flowers, and fruits.
  • One plant can have buds, flowers, and fruits at the same time.
  • Kampsis is propagated most often by seeds that ripen in late autumn.
  • The seeds are harvested and stored until spring.
  • In the spring they are sown in the place occupied by other annuals, since they emerge only after a year.

Save the seeds

  • The key to successful storage of flower seeds is dry air and constant temperature.
  • But if it is above 17 ° C, the seeds may dry out.
  • It is better to use wax paper bags for storage.
  • Seeds of flower crops remain viable for 2-3 years, and nasturtium, calendula, sweet peas - up to 4 years.

Cover the roses correctly

  • When the sub-zero temperature is established and the top layer of the soil slightly freezes, they begin to shelter the roses.
  • In the conditions of central Russia, all groups of roses are covered, except for the real Park ones.
  • For shelter, rarely knocked together wooden boxes, metal or plastic arches 40-50 cm high can serve.
  • All soft, unripe shoots are cut out from the bushes, and strong, well-lignified shoots are cut to such a height that they fit under the shelter.
  • All leaves are harvested, which, like soft shoots, can become a source of infection.
  • Spruce spruce branches are placed on the ground, which the roses were wrapped in back in September (hilling height 15–20 cm), spruce branches are poured (dry leaves, shavings) with a layer of 15 cm and spruce branches again on top. Then they install boxes or arcs, cover them with kraft paper, and on top with film, pressing the edges with stones.
  • There should be a small amount of airspace under cover. Until the temperature drops below -10 ° C, ventilation slots are left. If the roses are planted in a row and the shelter forms a tunnel, then the ends are left open. The stems of climbing roses, without cutting, are laid on the ground, spreading spruce branches, insulating material is also poured on them, and covered with paper and film on top.

Read more: Shelter for roses.

Preparations for the heating season

Good day, dear readers! Almost the next day after the end of the heating season, preparations for the next heating season, preparation for winter begin. And accordingly, the implementation of preparations begins. The first step is to draw up an action plan, preferably in electronic form, where all work is scheduled with deadlines, cost of work and responsible executors. An example of such an action plan, which I use myself, in Exel format, can be downloaded here:

Even before the end of the heating season, the heat supply organization must issue you a prescription, which contains a list of mandatory measures that must be performed during the inter-heating summer period. You should be guided by this prescription in preparation for winter.

Let's briefly review the main points of the standard prescription for preparing for the heating season.

First of all, it is necessary that, by order of the head of the organization, be appointed responsible for the operation of thermal power plants, and his deputy in case of illness or vacation, if there is a technological load, then it should only be a heat power engineer. If the load is only on heating, ventilation, hot water supply, then a person who does not have a special thermal engineering education can be appointed responsible.

An important point in the prescription is the need for the person responsible for the safe operation of thermal power plants and his deputy to undergo training and pass exams at the Rostekhnadzor commission once a year. This is generally a mandatory item, without it, an outfit for connecting heat will simply not be given out. For each heating unit (ITP), you need to make a passport, this is also a strictly mandatory item, otherwise you will not receive an act of technical readiness of heat-consuming installations.

Also, in the heating unit, it is necessary to hang out the ITP scheme (it must be in the ITP passport). I wrote about flushing and pressure testing in this article. These activities are necessary. Moreover, at the time of pressure testing and flushing, it is necessary to invite a representative of the heat supply organization, after the completion of the flushing and pressure testing, acts are drawn up and signed by the consumer and by the heat supply organization.

Pressure gauges during the inter-heating period must be checked, I usually do this immediately after the end of the heating season.

Another important point in the prescription - in the heating point, the input valves should not be made of cast iron, according to the Rules, steel valves are installed at the input of the heating network. It is also necessary to correctly place thermometers and manometers, and cut in the fittings under the manometers (if they are not there) in the heating unit in accordance with paragraph 9.1.45. "Rules for the technical operation of heat and power plants."

All pipelines, fittings in the ITP must be insulated with thermal insulation, this is also a necessary item. It is also advisable to paint the pipelines in the ITP in accordance with clause 9.1.40. Of the rules. Another item, without which you will not hand over the heating unit and you will not receive an act of technical readiness - this is a safety valve. It is usually placed on the return line in front of the house valve in the direction of water flow from the house. I have listed here not all the points of the standard prescription, but only the very best, from my point of view. All other points, which I did not write about, also need to be completed.

After completing all the planned activities, you hand over the ITP and the heat supply system to the inspector of the heat supply organization. If everything is fine and there are no complaints, then after a while the consumer is issued an act of technical readiness of heat-consuming installations and heating networks. Then, closer to the beginning of the heating season, an act of financial readiness of the subscriber to use thermal energy during the heating season is drawn up. If there are no debts, no financial claims, this paper is signed automatically.

And immediately before the start of the heating season, a heat connection order is issued. Moreover, it is not necessary to receive the outfit (copy) itself and it is not necessary, it is enough to know its number and date. And on the basis of this outfit, the heating season begins, the connection of heat.

On the topic of preparing for the heating season, I wrote a book with the same name, you can view it at the link below:

Preparing for the heating season

This book was written by me on the basis of my 15-year experience as a thermal power engineering practitioner. I also attached additional materials to the book, namely: an action plan for preparing for the heating season in Exel format, working programs for flushing and pressure testing of the internal heating system of the building, forms of flushing and pressure testing in Word format, ITP (heat point) passport with a diagram, passport of the heating network (heating mains), instruction manual for ITP in Word format, answers when passing the exam for the person responsible for the safe operation of thermal power plants in Rostekhnadzor using the OLIMPOKS system (testing on a computer).

2. What does the preparation for the heating season consist of?

3. Preparations for the heating season (appointment of a person responsible by order for the operation of heat and power plants, passing exams at Rostekhnadzor.)

4. Revision and repair of valves and other technical measures

5. Flushing and pressure testing of internal heat supply systems

Requirements for the preparation of residential buildings for the heating season

There are a number of strict requirements for preparing a house for the heating season at and in-house engineering systems, without which the operating organization will not receive permits for the launch of thermal energy to a heat supply facility.

The main directions of the OZM plan:

  1. Spring / autumn technical inspection of structural elements of apartment buildings, ITPs and structures.
  2. Complex of repair and restoration repairs of subordinate heat and power equipment in accordance with the current schedules of preventive maintenance and the results of the spring survey.
  3. Water flushing of network pipes.
  4. Hydraulic testing of heating systems.
  5. Completing heat supply systems with missing equipment and instrumentation.
  6. Providing boiler rooms with backup energy sources.
  7. Drawing up an act of emergency and technological armor of heat supply.
  8. Implementation of measures for the insulation of building structures.
  9. Obtaining an act and a certificate of readiness of the boiler house for the OZP.

General garden work to prepare for winter

Pest control, loosening and watering are carried out throughout the entire area. Shelter rules depend on the air temperature, the type of plant, the date of transplantation and other factors.

In the process of preparing for winter, a new landscape design of the site is being created. After harvesting foliage and weeds, the optimal places for paths and garden figures become visible, the ratio of summer and winter plants is more clearly defined.

To ennoble the garden, you can plant conifers in empty areas. It is advisable to plant in October or November, and in the southern regions until mid-December.

Treatment of crops from insects and rodents

To destroy pests, trees and shrubs are treated with the following preparations:

  • 3% Bordeaux mixture
  • solution of urea and copper sulfate
  • diluted with a mixture of slaked lime and vitriol
  • means "Hom", "Oxyhom", "Alirin-B", "Fitosporin-M", etc.

To scare off rodents, you can use a solution of creolin (0.5-1 kg of substance per 1 bucket of water). Poisoned mouse baits (seeds, cereals, etc.) should be laid out near the trunk by placing them in cardboard tubes.

We treat trees with preparations against rodents.

Loosening the soil

The soil around shrubs and trees must be thoroughly weeded out. Loosening reduces the number of pests, saturates the soil with oxygen and prevents roots from freezing.

The near-bore circle is dug to the depth of half a bayonet (at least 15-20 cm).

The width of the circle is determined depending on the age of the tree:

  • up to 2 years - 2 m
  • 3-4 years - 2.5 m
  • 5-6 years - 3 m
  • 7-8 years old - 3.5 m
  • up to 10 years - 4 m
  • over 11 years - 5 m.

Up to 1 m of soil is loosened around the bushes. The depth of loosening is at least 8-10 cm. Ash is added to the dug circle at the rate of 3-4 glasses per 1 square meter.

Shelter for the winter

There are separate shelter methods for different garden plants.

Plant type Shelter type for the winter
Fruit shrubs (chokeberry, raspberry, blackberry, etc.) Lapnik, root mulching.
No shelter required in southern regions
Grapes Partial or complete shelter depending on the climate.
The vine is covered after the October watering
Asters, badan, geyhera Shelter is prohibited (risk of fungal infection is high).
Before the cold winter, transplanting and moving to a house or a heated barn is possible
Anemones, chrysanthemums, crocosmia Wire frame with shavings or dry leaves, covered with plastic wrap
Ornamental shrubs Mulching (with peat, earthen mixture or sawdust).
For roses - cover with spruce branches (climbing, standard) or a jute bag (bushes)
Exotic and thermophilic shrubs Jute bag, reed mats, etc.
Fruit trees Root mulching, cover with netting, tar paper or spruce branches to protect against pests.
For young trees - tying with burlap, kraft paper and thin planks

Newly transplanted plants need to be cared for more carefully than other perennials. In a warm winter, they can be covered with spruce branches, and in severe frosts, with a continuous non-woven material.

We cover the vine after the October watering.

Last watering of the season

If it rains every day, then you can refuse additional watering. In dry autumn, garden plants need to be saturated with moisture before mulching and insulation.

You need to water the trees for the last time 10-12 days before the onset of frost. The water temperature should be higher than that of the environment. The depth of soil moisture is 70-80 cm. To reach this level, you need to pour 15-20 buckets of water into the trunk circle of an adult tree and 3-10 buckets on a young tree or shrub.

Sawdust, peat, spruce branches or other mulch are placed on the wet soil.

Watering of the lawn stops only after the air temperature drops to + 5 ... + 7 ° С. Grass cutting should be stopped 2 weeks before the first frost.The height of the lawn should be 4-5 cm.

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